Photography by Bert VanderVeen

You could say that Zac Durham, executive chef at Italian eatery Table 16, wrote his way to a culinary career. When he was a student at the College of Charleston, he took a job as editor for the lifestyle section of the student newspaper, and one of his duties was to write reviews of local restaurants. Not a bad job to have in Charleston, which boasts an incredible array of award-winning restaurants and an eclectic mix of cuisines. Durham’s journalistic career may not have taken off, but he found himself drawn to the culinary scene, and the passion for good, well-prepared food stuck.

“While cooking was something I was always interested in, I actually came to it out of necessity,” Durham says. “I was 22 years old and thought I had to do something.” Growing up in Greensboro, Durham recalls that he didn’t see a viable career in working as a chef, but the advent of television super-star chefs on the Food Network has changed that perception. “Now everyone wants to be a chef,” he says.

Durham’s passion was more than just a fleeting fancy, so he took steps to pursue a career in cooking, availing himself of the opportunity to work with talented chefs in top-notch restaurants. “I decided to start trying to find good jobs, filled with the right people, and do some good work. And I think I found them,” he says. So far Durham’s culinary journey has taken him from Greensboro to Charleston and back to Greensboro, with a layover in Beaufort. “I’m done moving!” he insists. “This is the end of the culinary train.”

But what an end it is. While having a meal with his mom at Undercurrent - the restaurant that once occupied Table 16’s coveted Elm Street spot - Durham had a chance meeting with restaurant owner Ben Roberts. It was a meeting that made all the difference. “When I met him, Ben asked me if I was looking for work, and two days later I was setting up the station for lunch,” Durham jokes.

The relationship has been a positive one for both professionals. “My wife and I are just starting out,” Durham adds, “and I think Ben sees a little of himself in that.” As far as the work is concerned, Roberts, who still owns and operates the Undercurrent in its new location on Battleground Avenue, leaves most of the daily operations to Durham and front-of-house manager John Upsal. The two are still hammering out the fine details, but Durham says he likes taking that creative lead. “I enjoy a lot of latitude with what we offer,” he explains.

And the offerings are simple, beautifully presented, and delightfully refreshing. Table 16’s focus is food with a Tuscan influence, emphasizing northern Italian dishes with a traditional regional flair. But it’s not your typical Italian restaurant experience. “The perception of Italian restaurants - red sauces and pasta - has been shed,” Durham says. “You sort of leave that behind and get back to good food, good wine, good meats, good cheeses, good technique.”

Favorite dishes on the current menu, which changes seasonally, include the grilled double-cut pork chop with a savory bread pudding, the baked Bolognese, and the veal osso buco. I tried one of the wine pairing menus, created weekly by Kerrie Thomas, formerly of Bistro Sophia. These menus, one white and one red, pair three wine selections with a tasting selection - an ideal meal and an opportunity to try a nice variety of vintages with perfect little plates full of flavor.

A dessert of coffee and a lemon tart rounded out the evening nicely, but only after I asked about the restaurant’s name. “Table 16 was the most popular table at the Undercurrent,” Upsal says. The tiny table faces Elm Street and has been the site of many special moments over the years. In fact, the night I was there, two friends took the table for a birthday celebration.

Add in artwork from the Blue Diamond Gallery next door, and the ambience is just right - casual, eclectic, and light. Patrons of the former Undercurrent won’t be shocked by a new decor either; the pale green walls, welcoming pineapple in the leaded-glass front door, and intimate atmosphere remain. Only the food is different - fresh, delicate, exciting, and inspired by Durham’s quest to cook food that does justice to the great chefs he’s learned from.